French Macaron Workshop: The Make Lounge, Islington

8 04 2013

The cupcake is dead, long live the macaron!

Photo 06-04-2013 12 54 28

Freshly baked by the class

We’re of course not talking about the (also delightful) chewy rocks of coconut and chocolate so beloved of the GEH, but the delicate pastel little fancies sold like precious gems wrapped in tissue paper in the likes of Laduree. OK, gfreeb is probably late to this fad, but we think there are 5 reasons that macarons are better than cupcakes:

  1. They are naturally gluten-free*
  2. Cupcakes are so 2009, dahling
  3. They are so light and dainty they are practically a health-food**
  4. They are so much more exclusive than cupcakes, only special people can make macarons
  5. Oh, just look, they SO PRETTY!

Number 4 was the reason that instead of wading in heavy-handed, armed with an internet tutorial to give them a shot, I elected to spend a sunny Saturday in the beautiful Make Lounge learning the art of macaron-making. I’m very glad I did, as we learned all manner of techniques and background from the expert Phillipa Munro. For instance, the shells of macarons are rarely flavoured, as it can be tricky to add flavour without impacting the structure. Instead, it infuses from the filling. Yes, sadly I was supposed to wait at least 24 hours before popping these in my mouth, one-by-one!

Photo 06-04-2013 12 35 50

Filled and (almost) ready for eating

The small-group morning session comprised part demo, part hands-on practice. It was very useful to see then do, in a way you can’t when following a recipe. Touching and watching the textures and consistencies we needed to achieve was very helpful. I got to have fun with a proper K-Mix (no room for one at home) and experiment with lovely gluten free gel colours – opting for an extreme turquoise, flecked with bronze for my batch. Learning that macarons are freezable was also a boon – I can keep them stored ready for special visitors!

The team at the Make Lounge were very accommodating of my need for gluten free, checking the ingredients of chocolates, colours and decorations for me. Pleasingly, the help-yourself snacks included the perennial coeliac favourite: Pom Bears. Win!

And the result? My macarons were a little less than perfect, but a pleasing first effort as my piping improved during the class. I chose a mismatched set of fillings including yummy salted caramel cream (recipe). I’m looking forwards to practising and experimenting at home, especially as I don’t need any special equipment or ingredients! The GEH will be happy.

Photo 06-04-2013 13 32 36The 3 hour macaron workshop was £59. Next spaces are available in May. The Make Lounge also cater for private parties.

*Assuming you don’t add a stupid gluteny filling

**I don’t recommend taking health advice from me


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Categories : Kitchen Projects, Special Events

The Seagrass @ Manze’s, Chapel Market

9 03 2013

There’s something slightly hipster about heading to a pop up restaurant, but visiting The Seagrass was a great excuse for this GF-er to visit an otherwise out of bounds traditional pie & mash shop; which has a forbidden air not just because of the pastry, but because of the usually steamy windows hiding crowds of locals for their lunch. We didn’t know quite what to expect as we trudged down the otherwise deserted Chapel Market on this rainy and dark Friday night.

Yummy menu and BYO(GF)B at The Seagrass

Yummy menu and BYO(GF)B at The Seagrass

The interior of the shop is fabulous – with old fashioned tiling and a welcome as warm as the cosy booths with narrow wooden benches. We piled in, armed with our hastily purchased BYOB to pick from a short menu with one ‘sea’ (fish) option and one ‘grass’ (meat, poultry, game) option for each course from the set £30 pp menu.

All of the menu options were naturally gluten free, so like most of my party I tucked into a rich, generous portion of thick crab bisque to start – packed with fresh crab meat, scattered with chorizo, and flecked with cracked black pepper. So good that my friend wandered into the (open) kitchen for a natter with the chefs about how they made it. To follow, an extremely large duck breast was served beautifully pink atop creamy mash and with studded with bitter tangs of marmalade glaze.

The atmosphere is chummy and relaxed. There’s something wonderful about eating good quality food in down to earth surroundings, and not feeling ashamed to tuck into your own (GF) lager; while chefs dance (!) around the kitchen and chat to the patrons. The ingredients are high quality and there’s no skimping on portion size – a hit with everyone in our group.

I had warned the chef (Iain) ahead by email that I needed gluten free, and delightfully they provided gluten free oatcakes as an alternative to have with the huge shared cheeseboard, and prepared a special amuse bouche of smoked salmon rillet on beetroot. The only minor slip up was serving this on the same platter as the others – I didn’t have a problem, but would be worth asking them to keep your portions separate as you order.

After some post-dinner discussion my friends awarded The Seagrass: 8/10

And for Gluten-Free Ability I give them: 8/10 too.

The Seagrass is open Wednesday – Saturday evenings. 3 courses are £30. BYOB – no corkage. Cash only.


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Categories : British, Restaurants & Cafes

Meat People, Islington Green

27 02 2013

meatpeopleAt the Clerkenwell end of Islington we’re spoiled for gluten free choice, but the no man’s land between Angel and Upper Street has less well served for some time, until now. Welcome to Angel, Meat People. One of an increasing number of restaurants that does one (or few) things well; and with it takes some of the risk away for coeliacs.

Occupying the site of the former S&M cafe on Islington Green, they have faithfully restored some of the original features of the old diner, and added some fun 1920s touches and lighting that will be sure to please the trendies, including a menu of classic but well-executed cocktails.

Rave reviews from around the table about the small portions of scallops to start, but I kept it simple with a nice medium-rare rump steak which was succulent and well-seasoned. Joyfully chips were on the menu too as they are fried separately so I felt far from hard-done-by, especially when chomping my way through the fresh chimichurri and sipping on the yummy toffee-flavoured Malbec.

A good, solid choice that we’re pleased to welcome to Angel. A little on the pricey side, but I think this is a safe gluten-free bet.

Food: 8/10
Service: 8/10
GF Ability: 8/10 – sadly no gluten free menu or bread, but knowledgeable staff


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Categories : American, European, Restaurants & Cafes

Gluten free labelling – it (sort of) works. Sometimes.

4 02 2013

A year after the new labelling legislation came into force, I think my conclusion is that it is good in principle, but in practice it only sort of works.

I recently visited the little market that pops up on a Sunday in Camden Passage. My chat with the stallholder of Hackney Belly highlights the continuing personal responsibility coeliacs have to quiz food producers on their ingredients and production methods regardless of a label.

'Gluten Free Recipe'

‘Gluten Free Recipe’

Hackney Belly serve a delicious looking array of baked treats, some with and some without wheat. They use the label ‘gluten free recipe’ rather than ‘gluten free’  to highlight that their food is not produced in a dedicated gluten free facility. Whilst it’s not strictly on the money in terms of the labelling law, it worked as it flagged for me to talk to them and ask in more detail about the ingredients and methods. I’m glad I did as it transpired that some of their products contained normal oats (i.e. not pure GF oats) so would not have been suitable for me. The question of ‘shared facilities’ is about your personal responsibility and the level of risk you are willing to take.

The problem with the new labelling law is that many other small producers and food outlets (and I’m sure even some mainstream ones) still use the strictly controlled  ’gluten free’ label incorrectly- when their food has not been tested to ensure its gluten levels are below 20ppm and they don’t necessarily have procedures in place to reduce cross contamination, such as when I visited this restaurant or one of the countless times in cafés when the gluten free cake is served with the wheaty tongs.

I can see why- the new system of labelling is confusing for retailers (‘no gluten-containing ingredients’ as an alternative label doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue), and if you don’t have coeliac or an allergy you don’t know the importance of being able to make an informed decision on whether you should take a risk on eating the product or not; versus the growing ‘slightly intolerant’ market.

The way labels are worded makes a massive difference to how we view the product – consider David’s reaction to the wording on the Pizza Express menu when I wonder if in reality the procedures are much different from other major pizza chains who don’t freak out the coeliacs with different phrasing on their menus? Similarly the phrase ‘no gluten containing ingredients’ on the back of Kettle Chips makes me nervous, whereas if it just listed the ingredients and no claim, I would probably buy them without thinking.

My conclusion is that one year in us coeliacs can’t afford to relax just yet – we still have a personal responsibility to ask what’s behind the label in many cases, and educate people as we go about the importance of getting the label right if you aren’t satisfied by the answers you get. The FSA made a helpful little fact sheet which I’ve emailed to a few producers now. Of course if you get repeat offenders, you can report to the FSA or trading standards too. I prefer to take the ‘helpful’ approach first, after all we want more options, not people scared to cater gluten free!


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Categories : Baked Goods, Opinion, Products, Street Eating & Market Stalls

The Gate, St. John Street

8 11 2012

Gluten-free and vegetarian? I know, right?! All of the sceptics will be surprised to hear that The Gate pulls off both, with tasty consequences. The menu is eclectic, ranging across Asia (wasabi potato cakes), the Middle East (falafels, mezze) and Mexico (tortillas – sadly not GF) for its dishes; but as the GEH pointed out: vegetarianism forces ingredient innovation – something I’m well familiar with from my weekly veg box (what on earth should I do with a black salsify?!)

Yummy, sweet & savoury green banana fritters

There was a good selection of gluten-free dishes (especially from the starters and mezze menu) and what we ended up with from The Gate was was satisfying and colourful in equal measures; beautifully presented and enjoyed all the more for the surprising Tuesday night buzz.

I was also delighted to see gluten-free dishes clearly labelled on the menu, but ever-paranoid I double checked with the waitress about cross-contamination, and was glad I did. Apparently it is normal practice to fry the GF dishes with the other ones. A near miss (they happily cooked mine separately after I asked), but given the amount of frustrations I’ve had with GF labelling since the law changed, I contacted The Gate for clarification and to explain the new law. You can see part of their response below. Sadly yet another example of confusion caused for coeliacs by the new labelling laws – it’s still vital that you clarify with a restaurant that you must avoid even a trace of gluten in your food even if they do use the ‘Gluten Free’ label, as its all too often used incorrectly.

GF Ability: 7/10
Service: 7/10
Food: 8/10

Dinner for two with wine was £60. There is another branch in Hammersmith.

Response from The Gate:

“many of the dishes on our menu that require deep-frying, are done so in the same oil…whenever we have special requests – i.e for gluten-, diary- or egg free dishes, people with coeliacs, nut allergies, etc – special care is taken to ensure that cross-contamination does not occur and our chefs prepare and serve the dishes without coming in contact with any other foods or ingredients”

The Gate have not yet confirmed whether they intend to change the labelling on their menu.


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Categories : Restaurants & Cafes, Vegetarian

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